|
|
and Plants |
and Tools |
|
Hi,
I was looking through the wonderfull gallery on the PrimitiveWays website and came across this picture:
http://www.primitiveways.com/Images2/acorn_leaching.jpg
I hope I understand the picture in the first place. Is the material in the centre of the leaves the acorn mix?
I'd be very thankful if you could explain to me how this leaching process works. I do not know that much about acorn preparation and have only ever seen them leached through a synthetic bag in a stream.
Thank you for your help!
The PrimitiveWays website really is excellent. Keep it up!
Jon
Hello Jon;
Acorns contain tannic acid and have to be leached before eating. Tannins, which are plant polyphenols, interfere with our ability to metabolize protein. The amount of tannins vary with the different acorns.
Here is a condensed version of the acorn leaching process:
1. Acorns are dried in the shell.
2. Acorns are shelled. There are different species of oak. If the acorn you are using has a skin on the nut (similar to the skin on a peanut), that has to be removed before grinding.
3. Acorn nuts are ground into VERY FINE flour. The finer, the faster the leaching of the tannins.
4. The photo you are referring to only shows one method of leaching acorn: A sand basin is created. The sand basin is lined with overlapping grape leaves. The acorn flour is spread over the grape leaves.
5. A cedar bough is placed over the flour to evenly disperse the flow of water into the flour.
6. The water leaches the tannins out of the acorn flour as it slowly percolates. Allow the water to disperse into the sand, then continue leaching with more water.
8. After the 3rd or 4th leaching of water, taste the acorn. There should be no bitterness when the leachinng is finish. If there is still any taste of bitterness, continue the leaching process.
9. After leaching, boil acorn flour with water.
The taste of acorn is subjective. Some people say it is bland, others say it has a unique nutty taste. Despite it's varied taste, acorn is highly nutritious. Percentages vary from species to species, but all acorns contain large amounts of protein, carbohydrates and fats, as well as the minerals calcium, phosphorus and potassium, and the vitamin niacin.
Hope this helps,
Dino Labiste
Hi Dino,
I am a producer on a TV show titled, Extreme Cuisine. We are exploring the extreme/unusual foods of the Pacific Northwest right now. Would really appreciate any info on edible Kelp in that region. Could we possibly do a story where we go out harvesting them and then come back and cook something?
Attached, please find a sheet on our show. Would appreciate any information.
Thanks!
Roma
Hello Roma;
Extreme Cuisine is an interesting show. Jeff Corwin has a fun job of tasting exotic foods all over the world.
In the Bay Area of California, we have a diverse ethnic population from many corners of the globe. The smells and taste of all the different ethnic foods make the Bay Area a great place to live.
There are a variety of edible marine algae, seaweed and kelp in Northern California. The time to gather seaweed varies, but usually it is from March to July. Seaweeds are as seasonal in their growth patterns as land plants. Seaweeds grow in response to the increased sunshine filtering down to them in spring and summer, and die back when the days grow short in late autumn.
The choicest edible kelp harvested in Northern California are:
1. California Nori (Porphyra perforata)
2. California Kombu (Laminaria digitata)
3. California Wakame (Alaria marginata)
4. Bull whip kelp (Nereocystis luetkeana)
They are easiest to gather at low tides. Some seaweed grow at the high intertidal zone while others grow in the lowest intertidal zone, which requires a wetsuit and extreme low tides for harvesting.
Other edible species are Sister Sarah (Cystoseira osmundacea), Green Nori (Enteromorpha intestinalis), Ogo (Gracilaria verrucosa) and Sea Lettuce (Ulva lactuca).
There is another seaweed that is also edible and that is the California Sea Palm (Postelsia palmaeformis). In 1984, it became illegal to gather California Sea Palms because the plants were under too much harvesting pressure. Hopefully, these restrictions will help the Sea Palms return to their former numbers.
I hope this information helps you with your show about Pacific Northwest marine cuisine.
Let me know if you have any other questions concerning seaweeds and I'll try and help you as best as I can.
Regards,
Dino Labiste
Hello Mr. Labiste,
I have been reading a lot of your articles on the society of primitive technology. I am blown away by all the knowledge that primitive skills has in abundance. I would like to say that it totaly opened me up to the reality of the skills that can be learned. I will be a truck driver in about a month, which is lucky for me because I can travel and learn all kinds of primitive skills. I have the time and money to actually practice them. I was wondering if you could help me because I see that there are so many skills to learn -- plants, scouting, medicine, etc., as well as different environments, such as desert, winter, etc. to employ them. What, in your opinion, would be a good way to map out my training? Such as, is there one school that can teach me the bulk of what I need? Should I go to different schools to specialize in certain skills? What schools are good?
Thank you for your time sir,
Gordon
P.S.
The thumb straps for the hand drill work wonders. Thanks for the help.
Hello Gordon;
Often times in our Western, fast paced life, we tend to look for the shortest route to learning skills that take indigenous cultures a lifetime to master. Learning is the fun and important aspect of acquiring any skill. Not only do you experience and gain knowledge, but you also learn something about your abilities and yourself.
Ask yourself, why do I want to learn these skills? What am I going to get out of it in my life?
Find a skill that you feel passionate about. Find a teacher who is willing to guide you on that path to becoming proficient in that skill. Sometimes people specialize in one skill, while others learn many skills. My suggestion is to focus on one thing at a time, then, when you are ready, move on to something else (if you wish to do so). Take your time and smell the roses. You'll begin to appreciate what your ancient ancestors had to learn to live in a lifestyle before the age of metal.
There are good schools and terrible schools out there. Find one that has knowledgeable instructors by talking to the people who are coordinating the event or the school. There are too many survival, wilderness, primitive schools that have cropped up in the last few years due to the internet and the myriad of new schools. People will take a few classes or learn something via the inernet, then they are off and running starting a school or event on primitive technology. Get to know more about the instructors, their experience and how long they have been doing what they are doing. See their work. Get recommendations from other people. Talk to the instructors about their expertise, either in person or on the phone.
There are 2 events that I can suggest. The instuctors are excellent and the quality of the events are exceptional. They are Rabbitstick Rendezvous in Rexberg, Idaho and Winter Count in Maricopa, Arizona. Here is the webiste for the 2 events:
http://www.backtracks.net/
Check it out when you are in that area. Also, find a good instructor who will tutor you in certain skills. They are around. You'll have to do some research and ask around. Some of the instructors at the Rabbitstick Rendezvous and at Winter Count have schools. Attending the events will give you an opportunity to talk to the instructors in person.
Go slow and the quality of your skills will improve immensely. Do not try to learn so much in a short amount of time.
Regards,
Dino Labiste
Hi Dino,
My name is Bennie Girl. I live with my husband up North in Mt. Shasta, about an hour from the Oregon border. I was born in Honolulu, but have been state side since I was 2. I'm doing a paper for my ANTH 5, Intro to Archaeology. I can't find how early Hawaiians made fire. Where can I find the answer? You probably know. Maybe you can direct me to some sites where I can learn more about my cultural history.
Mahalo,
Bennie
Aloha no, Bennie. Here is an excerpt from the Bishop Museum book called "Arts and Crafts of Hawaii, Section I, Food" by Te Rangi Hiroa. The text is from the section on Cooking in the book.
"Fire (ahi) was produced by the Polynesian method of rubbing an upper pointed piece ('aulima) of wood along a groove formed on the upper surface of a lower piece ('aunaki) of dry wood such as hau (Hibiscus tiliaceus). The upper piece was held in a forward slant, the fingers of both hands clasped over the front and the thumbs to the back. The lower piece was kept fixed on the ground by placing the front end against a fixed object or under an assistant's foot. The upper stick was rubbed (kuolo) in successive forward movements to create the groove and push the particles of detached wood to the forward end of the groove. When sufficient wood dust had collected, the movements were quickened until the friction created heat and caused the wood dust to smoulder and smoke. Some inflammable material, such as old dry tapa, coconut husk, or coconut stipule (a'a), was placed on the ground and the under stick was turned over it to deposit the burning dust on the material. Strips of dry tapa were usually plaited in a loose three-ply braid, with one end frazzled out for easy ignition. The under stick was given a sharp tap on the back with the upper stick to dislodge all the dust. The dry material was waved in the air or blown gently until it ignited ('a) into flame -- ua 'a ke ahi. The whole process of creating fire by friction is termed hi'a ahi.
Firewood received the specific name of wahie."
Also, try contacting the Bishop Museum. The museum has a webpage on answering questions about Hawaiiana. Access the webpage below for further information and links:
http://www.bishopmuseum.org/contacts.html
The Hawaiian method of fire making is called the fire plow by contemporary fire makers. You might want to Google "fire plow" to find more information about that method of fire making. Here are some sites about the fire plow:
http://www.primitive.org/fireplow.htm
http://www.wwmag.net/fireplow.htm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1i0iJGgdT7A
Be aware that the Polynesian method of holding the stick that moves back and forth on the stationary stick is held in a certain position. Some of the contemporary fire makers today will hold the stick differently (see the excerpt on Polynesian fire making, above, from the book entitled "Arts and Crafts of Hawaii").
Here is a webpage on the plant, called Hau, that the early Hawaiians used for making fire:
http://www.canoeplants.com/hau.html
Hope this helps,
Dino Labiste
G'day Dino,
If the spindle is shaped, say, 1inch diameter at the top where the cord goes round, and the bottom half of the spindle is a quarter of that, will the bottom of the spindle spin faster and so create a coal quicker because of increased speed at the bottom?
Thanks,
Barry from Australia
Howdy Barry;
You'll get an increase in speed, but what you'll also need is downward pressure to create enough friction to ignite the fine dust that accumulates in the notch of the hearthboard. Two factors for igniting the fine dust into an ember are spindle rotation and downward pressure. Start out at a slow rotation and warm up the hearthboard. Then increase to a moderate rotation and some downward pressure to create the fine dust in the notch area. After the dust starts to build up, then apply more rotation and increase the downward pressure. At that point, you should have smoke swirling around the base of the spindle. Don't stop until you see puffs of smoke coming from the fine dust in the notch.
Good luck on your fire making endeavors.
Regards,
Dino Labiste
I'm just tring to understand how much spring or how stiff the altalt should be? I'm starting to build a board atlatl. The spring or stiffness is bothering me. I just don't understand. Yes, I know in the past, the people that used the atlatl didn't think about it, I guess. Just trying to learn what would work for me.
Dane Britton
Hello Dane;
The straight forward answer is “Don’t worry about it.” It doesn’t really matter. I published an article in a reviewed physics journal, The American Journal of Physics (AJP), several years ago on this very subject. The data was obtained from a high-speed digital camera in the mechanical engineering lab at UC Davis. Most of the real atlatls seen in museums have absolutely no flex.
Flexibility is VERY important in atlatl darts in exactly the same way that the spine or flexibility of arrows is important. If the dart is too stiff then the tail end will kick down. If the dart is too flexible then the tail will kick up.
There is a link to a download my atlatl article and another article on tuning atlatl darts in PrimitiveWays.com
Regards,
Dick Baugh
12/29/08
Dear "Norm Kidder";
I ran across your cordage article on the 'PrimitiveWays' website. It brought back some memories.
Several years ago I was putting in a concrete foundation for a heavy equipment barn in the remote unexplored regions of Transmexico (that inland or upper area of South Texas between the Rio Grande and Nueces rivers). After working from before dawn till after dark, I would make rope. What was supposed to be a three day job turned out to be more like three months. There was a bit of tension. We barely even talked to each other.
One night, the old man who owned the ranch came over to me and said he couldn't believe a white man could do what I was doing. He thought that civilized white folk had lost the patience and concentration needed for such primitive skills. I told him that I might not be quite civilized or pure white. He wasn't a bigot, so I told him the truth.
When I was very young my family moved to the Caribbean. I learned many skills. Many of the local fishermen built their own boats and would trust only a rope they had made with their own hands. I learned to make rope from them.
The real trick of hand rope making is hundreds or thousands of hours of practice. After a while it becomes almost like breathing; a semiautomatic activity. You can think about something else while your hands work automatically; or, slip into a state of semiconsciousness.
Fred Brawner
Fred, you're lucky to have had that "primal" experience. Today's kids think primitive technology means Pacman or Frogger. I'm afraid the concept of patience (the most important primitive skill) is fast disappearing.
Thanks for the story,
Norm
Hi -
I am the art teacher at a Montessori school. I have a third grade boy who wants very much to make a bead drill, the kind used by the Miwok (we have a drawing from a book). I have read that buckeye, or other hard wood was used for the drill (bit) part, but haven't come up with any other details to guide us. I came across your site and thought it worth asking if you might have a more specific plan/diagram/general tips for me and Ben.
Thanks!
Julie
Hello Julie,
Ask yourself "Just what is a third grade boy capable of doing?" There are all kinds of possibilities. He could drill some beads with equipment identical to that used by the Miwok. He could make a drill that works the same way but uses a steel cutting tool. He could make some beads that look like the originals but use modern tools. He could make a pump drill, a tool intorduced by the Spanish. He could learn just how time consuming this process would be. (A friend and amateur archaeologist from Illinois made and used a bow drill, all natural materials, to drill a hole in a Gulf of Mexico conch shell. I think it took almost ten hours.
I am passing this on to the rest of the PrimitiveWays gang to see if they have more suggestions.
Good luck,
Dick Baugh
Julie:
I think Dick's response is a good one, and speaks to the realities of bringing primitive technologies to a third grade classroom. I seriously doubt that a wooden bit, no matter what wood was used, would be effective for drilling beads with the possible exception of beads of steatite (soapstone), which it extremely soft material. I think making a drill with a metal bit or point would be your most practical and successful choice. As far as tool design goes, a length of dowel with an inserted nail in one end that's been flattened and filed to a point is one style I've seen, although it's not a replica of anything "primitive".
Hope this helps.
Ken Peek
Dear Dino,
I have been unable to find an explanation or illustration of how to roll, tie, and suspend a blanket pack from webbing as straps. This method is used by BOSS and others. If you know how to do this I would appreciate the information.
Best,
Bob
Hi Bob;
When you say "webbing", are you referring to a type of netting? I am unfamiliar with the method that the Boulder Outdoor Survival School (BOSS) is using.
I have create a netted bag that can be used as a backpack for carrying your gear. Everything is bundled in your blanket or a plastic tarp. The backpack is made out of a rectangular shaped net. A strap, like a long piece of leather or a long strip cut out of a blanket, is threaded through the top meshes of the net, then threaded through the bottom meshes of the net. The ends of the strap are tied together. This strap goes over your shoulders, like a regular backpack strap. Some type of padded cushion should be created to make the strap comfortable on your shoulders. The vertical length of the outer meshes of the net are threaded with a cordage to enclose the net around your bundled gear to form a bag. Unless you do this, it is not easy to visualize the explanation. Access the webpage below, to view a photo of the finished net backpack on my back. It was modified from a large, regular carrying net:
http://www.primitiveways.com/Kahiko_workshops4.html
I have also seen a blanket roll, with gear wrapped inside, carried on the back using a wide leather strap that is attached near the ends of the blanket roll. The leather strap is slung across the chest and shoulders. The ends of another leather strap is attached away from the middle of the blanket roll. This leather strap is slung across the forehead. So, two straps are taking the full load of the bundled blanket roll.
Regards,
Dino Labiste
By webbing I mean the 2" wide woven cotton strapping. It's my understanding that gear is folded in the blanket or tarp, and that bundle is tied up with cord. Then the webbing is threaded through the cord to create shoulder straps and a waist belt like a backpack.
Bob
Hi Bob;
Interesting idea. Even if you don't know the exact explanation of how it was done, I'm sure by experimenting with that concept, you can create something similar that works for your need.
Regards,
Dino Labiste
Hi Dino,
Thanks for maintaining your awesome PrimitiveWays website. I recently returned from Alaska where many of the natives were selling "eskimo yo-yo's" as a child's game. After departing, I realized that one of the elders had been explaining traditional hunting to me and discussed the use of bola's for the taking of water fowl. In retrospect, the child's game looked a lot like the hunting version, and I'm curious to know if they're related?
Also, now I've been inspired to make a set of bolas, but am curious to know if you or anyone else has any information about the specific process.
I've heard that you can make them by putting rocks in a rawhide sack, or by tying directly onto the rocks.
Some questions I have are:
1. How long are the cordage sections? Are they offset in length?
2. How big of rocks do you use?
3. How many rocks is traditional?
4. What specific game was taken traditionally?
5. Does anyone have tips for throwing techniques?
Also, when I was searching for "bolas" on the internet, I received information on Hawaiin fire dancing. Is there a relationship between fire dancing and the hunting weapon? If bolas were used traditionally in Hawaii, I'd also be curious to learn about those specifics.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Darren Cooke
Hi Darren;
I don't have any specific info on Inuit or Eskimo bolas, but maybe these websites might help:
http://www.flight-toys.com/bola/bola_eskimo2.html
http://www.flight-toys.com/bola/bola_eskimo3.jpg
http://www.flight-toys.com/bola/bola_eskimo1.html
http://www.flight-toys.com/bolas.htm
> Is there a relationship between fire dancing and the hunting weapon?
>
If bolas were used traditionally in Hawaii,
>
I'd also be curious to learn about those specifics.
"Hawaiian fire dancing" is more of a tourist origin. Traditional Hawaiian dancing did not have any fire dancing.
There is a Hawaiian weapon called pikoi, which consisted of a wooden or stone weight, with or without a handle, to which a long cord was attached. It has been likened to the South American bola. The weighted rope was thrown at an opponent's legs to trip him. It may be assumed that a successful throw was speedily followed up with some other weapon to complete the job. This weapon appears to have been peculiar to Hawaii, as there is no record of it from any other part of Polynesia.
Hope this helps,
Dino Labiste
(question for the "Antler Handle Knife" article)
Hi,
I hope you don't mind a question. I've found your page to be very helpful. I was wondering, though, how long should I wait to trust that the antler has dried completely?
Many thanks!
Dave
Hello David;
How was the process? Did you find it easy or difficult to insert the knife tang into the antler?
Let it dry for at least a week before using it.
Regards,
Dino Labiste
Oh, it was quite a bit easier to insert than I'd expected. Tried the boiling method. Had it soaking for a couple days prior. Worked great! I'm so amazed. I've done some polishing on the handle, but I'll refrain from anything more strenuous for the time you suggest. Thanks for the response.
All the best,
Dave
Hi Dino;
I am a student from Germany and I am very fascinated by the handdrill.
I have 2 things I would like to ask:
First is about a trick I have heard from: not drilling straight at the end but with a little angle to increase fricion. Is this right or not so good, because drilling out of the center this way, though it is a short time at the end and you could work against this by changing the sides of this not straight drilling?
And the second thing is about the correct notch shape. You have to use a 45 degree angle for the notch pointing to the center. And has the corner reach the center point? Or better stop a little before, and when yes, should you prefer to make a wider end of the notch, that it is flat at the end but still pointing to the center in this situation?
I have not much experience, and I hope you as a very experienced handdrill expert have some advice for me. I would be very happy!
Best wishes!
Michael
Hello Michael;
I don't see any advantage to changing the angle of your spindle while drilling. Although, when my spindle binds in a deep hole on the hearthboard, I sometimes angle my drilling in different directions to widen the hole. Whether you drill straight up and down or angle the spindle, it does not increase the friction. Friction is increased when you apply more downward pressure on the spindle.
When creating your notch hole, which is shaped like a triangular wedge, the point should end at the center of the spindle hole on the hearthboard. Open up the wide end of the notch. You want your char to filter down the notch hole and not accumulate on top of the spindle hole on the hearthboard. Too narrow of a notch hole and the char will not filter down the notch hole.
I hope this information is helpful. Good luck on your fire making efforts. Let me know if you are successful in getting fire.
Regards,
Dino Labiste
Hello,
I read your article on "The Shade Tree Knife Mechanic" several times, and I'm fascinated by it! It gets me so excited to have the chance to make my own knives, because the way you lay it out seems simple and do-it-yourself yet effective. However, there were a couple questions I had.
How do you reach the desired thinness when using an old, worn out file? Those things are too thick it seems for a short knife blade. Do you need a hammer and anvil?
Also, what exactly do you mean by "medium red heat" in reference to the appropriate temperature for heat treating a blade? Could you email me a color so I could have something to reference?
Thanks for the help,
Stephen
Hello Stephen;
I am very pleased that you enjoyed reading my take on knife making.
How do you reach the desired thinness when using an old, worn out file? I must confess I’ve never used an old file for this purpose and I never pound on things because I have a pretty good supply of steel of the desired thickness. After annealing a file should be pretty easy to reduce in thickness. Buy Wayne Goddard’s $50 knife shop. It is an excellent book that covers the subject in much greater depth than my article.
Also, what exactly do you mean by "medium red heat" in reference to the appropriate temperature for heat treating a blade? Medium red is in the eye of the beholder. The old time bladesmiths did their heat treating by color. In order to learn that they served a lengthy apprenticeship with a master. I consider it to be an example of knowing how without knowing why. I don’t say that disrespectfully, but we’ve learned a lot about metallurgy in the last 100 years. In order to use color for judging temperature one must make sure that the ambient lighting is not too bright. A blade that is medium red hot in bright sunlight won’t appear the same as it would in the shade late in the evening. Consequently you should do as the famed Japanese swordsmiths do: heat treat in a dark place. Practice on a few scraps of the steel your blades are made from. It is best if you don’t overheat the metal. In other words get it hot enough to harden but not much hotter because that will promote grain growth and decarburizing. Heat a piece of scrap up to what you think is “medium red” and quench it in water. Try to scratch it with a file. If you can scratch it then it wasn’t hot enough and reheat it to a somewhat brighter color and try again.
Another method would be to borrow a pyrometer, an instrument that measures temperatures in this range.
Best of success,
Dick
Hello Bill;
I have just read your account of tanning a pelt with interest. I am studying a creative writing degree at my university and I am in the process of writing a horror story for my next assignment. I intend for one of my characters to kill domestic cats and tan their pelts to be made up into coats. I wonder if you could answer a couple of questions for me?
1. Can you tell me why you cook up the brains and rub them into the pelt? Can you describe the smell?
2. Once the pelt has been smoked doesn’t it smell? – How would you get rid of the smell?
3. What sort of alcohol do you use?
4. Would there be any particular problems in skinning a cat?
I will be very grateful for any help you can give me and will mention
your website in my bibliography.
Regards,
Lin Whitehouse
Hello Lin;
I would be happy to answer your questions.
1. Can you tell me why you cook up the brains and rub them into the pelt?
As in handling any raw flesh, there is always a safety issue. Perhaps you have heard of people getting infections from raw chicken getting into cuts on their hands. Cooking raw flesh, or brains reduces that risk.
2. Can you describe the smell?
Not really, save to say it is kinda nasty. I like to soak my old smoking skirts in water and add a bit of that water to the brains while cooking them. Improves the smell, and seems to make the brains last a bit longer.
3. Once the pelt has been smoked doesn’t it smell?
Yes it does, but it is quite a good smell, sort of like barbequed meat. It is a huge improvement over the brain smell.
4. How would you get rid of the smell?
You don't. The smell does fade with age, but never goes away entirely. One of the advantages of smoked buckskin is it will mask human scent.
5. What sort of alcohol do you use?
I use denatured alcohol, or rubbing alcohol.
6. Would there be any particular problems in skinning a cat?
I skinned a bobcat once a long time ago. Don't recall any unusual problems. The small parts of any pelt, such as ears, toes, and tails are always harder to do than the large areas. If you are not going to use those parts, it will make your work easier, but a less interesting final result.
I would love to get a copy of your story. Give me a shout if you have any more questions.
Good luck,
Bill Scherer
Norm;
Recently I have been attempting to steam bend limb tips on Osage wood in a attempt to make a static recurve bow. In my first attempt, I steam boiled about 12" of the the wood in a baking pan covered with tin foil for about 55 minutes. I have been told that you should bend the wood in one quick motion without any hesitation. It splintered in the bend area of course. I then experimented with a piece of scrap Osage with good results. The last piece of scrap Osage splintered in the bend area like the first one. This piece I steam boiled for 1 hour. The thickness for the one that worked in the bend area was 5/16" and the one that broke was 6/16". After reading your article, I am thinking that perhaps my problem is that I am boiling the wood too long. I have enclosed some photos to give you a better idea of what I am attempting to do. You can see in the one photo I am using a piece of metal on the belly side of the limb or the outer side of the bend to prevent the wood from splintering or lifting. I would appreciate any help or suggestions you cab give me.
Jerry
Jerry, your set up looks good, and you may be correct as to the problem. I bent a yew stave of similar size, and boiled the end for only 20 minutes (as per Tim Baker's instruction). My jig was simpler, catch the tip and then bend over a piece of wood using the stave for leverage. I would also try a slower, steady bend. You may have bent it too fast as well. (I'm thinking of something like a five to ten second count). Your jig works to prevent the inside of the curve from collapsing, which puts all the stress on the outside stretching. You might try cutting out the area of the gig under the area that fails. Another factor is the wood grain. I try to cut critical areas of a stave so as not to cross grain layers. If all else fails, try cutting a piece a bit thicker than you will need and then sand down past the splintering. Hope some of this helps.
Good luck,
Norm
Norm;
I want to thank you for taking the time to try and help me with my steam bending problem. I did another experiment today with a piece of Osage scrap which was 3/8" in the bend area. I soaked the wood for 10 to 15 minutes prior to boiling and then for another 45 minutes. I did the bend a little slower as you suggested and it worked. Thanks again.
Jerry
Dear Mr. Scherer,
I am sorry to bother you, but I recently came across an article of yours on the internet at http://www.primitiveways.com/foxtan/Tanafox.htm. I have never done this before and am not sure where to start. I am using your article as my main reference. I only have the tail and wish to tan it so it does not become stiff. I am attempting to learn as much as I can and gather all the needed materials before starting this task. One question I have is that in your picture of smoking the two pelts I noticed that it did not look like you smoked the tail, but only the body and up where the leg of the jeans started. Also, is your planner blade like a razor blade or is it just a flat blade that is duller. Is there a substitute for brains if I cannot find them?
I was wondering if you had any other tips or for someone not so familiar with this.
Thank you,
Sean Burke
Hello Sean;
Never a problem to talk about tanning. As for the tail smoking, this has been a problem I have never come up with a good solution. I don't remember what I did for those particular foxes in the article, but Here is a few things I have done throuhout the years.
1. This one gave me the best results, but takes the most time. Sew the tail skin into a split in the tanning skirt. This leaves the flesh side exposed to the smoke, but not the fur.
2. The second method is to hold the tail by hand into a stream of smoke, directing the smoke onto the flesh side of the skin. This is done when tanning a deerskin, and some smoke is leaking out of the deerskin where there is a hole.
I would like encourage you to try tanning an entire pelt, not just the tail. The tail is a very fragile piece, and cannines are very thin skinned creatures.
Good luck,
Bill
The planer blade for scraping the fat, meat and membrane off the hide is not sharp like a razor blade. It's edge is bevelled on one side. You can substitute brains with egg yolks. There is a formula, if you use egg yolks.
Regards,
Dino Labiste
Dick, all of your articles are excellent. I have one question. How does one apply sufficient downward pressure when trying to start fire with a hand drill? Try as I might, it just won't happen. I use the Egytpian variation of the bow drill and it works a treat. The hand drill defeats me. I can't even get smoke and only got dust once.
Chuck McKinney
Hello Chuck;
It only took me about six months to gain success with a hand drill. Because of my age and weight I have to have sticks that are really optimized. It took a combination of:
1. A transition from blisters to calluses
Use the palms of your hands, not your fingers and use the bottom part of your palms, nearest your little fingers. If you feel heat in your hands then stop for a day.
2.
Finding the right materials
The hearth board should be relatively soft wood like cedar or yucca from the desert, about one half inch thick. The bottom end of the spindle should be about three eights inch in diameter and tapered. Long spindles work better for me than short ones. I have a wild rose stem about three feet long that I have been using for years. It has a square hole in the base so I can use replaceable tips. The tips are generally a little harder than the hearth board (elderberry, mule fat, mare‘s tail). For me small differences in density of the materials mean the difference between success and failure. Persons who are heavier, more muscular and have bigger hands are successful with materials that I can’t even get smoke from.
3. Proper ergonomics
I am left handed so I kneel on my left knee and step on the board with my right foot fairly close to the hole/notch. Avoid having your hands far from your shoulders. Keep your hands pretty close to your shoulders so you can get better leverage. Get up off your rear end and push down HARD on the spindle as you spin it. Work from the shoulders rather than from the elbows. Don’t forget to breathe. Just like every other athletic endeavor, all the muscles that you aren’t using should be relaxed .
4.
Technique
Use both arms with equal vigor. I see novices working like heck with one hand and the other hand is barely moving. If the tip of the spindle doesn’t flop back and forth then you are using both arms. Put a little spit on your palms to increase the friction. You must move from low on the spindle to back up to the top as quickly as possible.
5.
Building up the appropriate muscles
The first time I had success I cheated and stuck the hearthboard in the oven at 300 degrees before doing it. Another trick is “training wheels”, a pair of thumb loops tied to the top of the spindle. They will allow you to twirl continuously without having to move from the bottom to the top of the spindle.
And there’s always the Tom Sawyer method. Get someone else to do the work. The Paleoplanet web site has a pretty good forum on, among other topic, friction fire. Ask them too.
Dick Baugh
Dino;
I have been charged with making kalua pig in an imu for a family
reunion on the Mainland (central Wisconsin) this summer. I've
been involved in several 'backyard luau' imus when we lived in
Hawaii, always as a 'laborer' but never been the head luna [foreman] before.
I have never have been involved with one on the Mainland where
there is a need to substitute for some of the core materials.
Although I paid attention whenever I helped with an imu. I'm a
bit apprehensive about taking on full responsibilities myself,
however I do feel that I can do it. Your very detailed info on
the PrimitiveWays website (http://www.primitiveways.com/Imu1.html
) was an excellent find, and has given me more confidence. Thanks!
May I ask your advice on a Mainland imu?
Not sure if I can come up with lava rock in Wisconsin. What can I substitute for the lava rocks? I believe that any smooth river rock would work. Suggestions?
Banana stump & leaves. I have heard that corn stalks can
be substituted for the banana stump. If corn husks and leaves can
be substituted for the ti and banana leaves, I have access to
TONS of those in Wisconsin. What do you think? If not, do you
know of anyplace to get mail order banana stump and/or ti leaves?
Aloha,
Mike Warriner
Aloha Mike;
The ideal stones to use for imu cooking are igneous rocks. Stones
that are formed by the solidification of molten magma. I use vesicular
basalt rocks that I have found in Northeastern California. The
basalt stones retain a good amount of heat after they have been
fired. I don't know what type of river rocks you have in your
area, but I would not recommend sedimentary rocks. These stones
will break and may explode when heated. Sedimentary rocks do not
retain as much heat as igneous stones. Here is a test to see if
you have a type of sedimentary rock, like sandstone. Take a hammer
and whack the river rock. If it breaks easily, it might be sandstone.
If it is still in tact, then it MIGHT be useable for your imu.
Try testing a few stones by heating it up in a small fire. Blaze
the stones to see if it does not break or explode. Another alternative
to acquiring stones for imu cooking is to purchase them at landscaping
businesses that sell basalt rocks. Some contruction material stores
may also carry basalt stones.
You can substutite corn stalks, husks and leaves for the banana stump/leaves and ti leaves. Any plant material that will provide moisture, is not toxic and will not impart an unpleasant taste to your food will work. I have also gotten bags of lettuce scraps from the grocery store. Just talk to your local grocer and have them save up the lettuce scraps for your imu.
Good luck on your imu cooking.
Regards,
Dino Labiste
Aloha no, Dino!
I just wanted to touch bases with you to say 'tanks, eh' for your advice regarding my Mainland imu last summer. I was able to find plenty of good 'river rock' locally, and I took your advice and did a test fire to test our rocks the day before lighting the starting imu fire to weed out any bad rocks.
Substituting corn stalks for banana stumps and corn leaves for ti and banana leaves worked absolutely perfect. We used seasoned oak, which along with corn is abundant in Wisconsin, to heat things up and got an absolutely perfect result!
For some reason my plastic covering did not get as tight as I expected. Though there was plenty of heat and steam in the imu, it didn't balloon up and hold as taunt as I have seen it do in other imus that I helped out with. I had a great seal and the clay soil seemed perfect for holding in the pressure/steam. This caused me some concern overnight, as I wondered if my stones and coals were not hot enough, or I wondered if I was otherwise loosing heat somehow/somewhere. Though I am still puzzled as to why I didn't get that nice tight plastic cover, the 200 lb. pua'a [pig] come out absolutely perfect, and the rocks were still holding plenty of heat some 12 hours after we sealed up the imu.
We cooked another pig on a spit overnight, but the kalua pig was a huge hit, and was gone long before the spit roasted pig. Next reunion, I'm on the hook to do both pigs "Hawaiian Style", and I'm very much looking forward to it.
Thanks again for your excellent imu resource on PrimitiveWays, and for taking the time to answer my e-mail!
Alohas!
Mike
Hello,
I'm not sure if you have cooked a pig this way, but if you have I was wondering if the pig will cook just the same if it has been skinned?
Jon
Hi Jon;
> . . . . wondering if the pig will cook just the same if it has been skinned?
Yes.
Regards,
Dino Labiste
Wow!
Thanks for the quick reply. This is my first time trying anything like this. I live in Pa. I'm going to dig a hole and cook a 50 pound pig in it. Any tips or tricks? What should I use to season the pig if anything. What should I wrap it in since I don't have access to banana leaves? I really appreciate your response because I can't find someone who I can dialogue with that knows what they are doing.
Blessings,
Jon
Hello Jon;
Read my article again on Hawaiian Imu cooking. I tried to cover as much information as I could think of. If you have any specific quesions, e-mail me and I'll try to answer them.
> What should I use to season the pig, if anything?
You don't have to season the pig with anything, unless you want a certain flavor or sauce on the pig. My suggestion is to cook the pig without any seasoning. You can always add seasoning, like salt and /or pepper, after the pig is cooked.
> What should I wrap it in since I don't have access to banana leaves?
Keep in mind, the wrapping is to keep the meat clean of any dirt that might fall into the pit when uncovering the imu. Also, the wrapping allows you to take out the pig from the imu after it is cooked. You can cut up the pig and place it in clean burlap bags. Or you can surround the pig with clean burlap bags that have been opened up to create sheets of burlap. Cover the pig with the sheets of burlap and use cordage or a strong string to tie everything together. Improvise, while keeping the 2 reasons for wrappng the pig in mind.
Regards,
Dino Labiste
Hi,
I am new to these primitive ways, but I have learned to make cordage from your excellent videos on PrimitiveWays.com. In one of your videos, you show a bag that was made from cordage. Where could I learn to make one of these or other bags from cordage?
I. McCarthy
The bag you are referring to is called a looped string bag. You can try a Google search for more information on how to make the bag. This style of bag was used by indigenous cultures throughout the world in some form or another. The other bag is called a carrying net. This type of bag was used by California Natives. I also teach workshops in primitive skills. Access the webpage below for this year's workshops. Check the webpage again in February of 2008 for more workshops. The majority of the workshops are held in Fremont, California.
http://www.primitiveways.com/kahiko_schedule.html
Regards,
Dino Labiste
|
|
and Plants |
and Tools |
|
© PrimitiveWays 2009